Un-Belize-able: true Belize culture
When I say “Belize” what do you immediately think of? White sandy beaches, crystal blue waters, Barrier Reef, vacation resorts probably. Well, what if I told you there’s another side of Belize that a typical tourist does not see. My recent trip to Belize was not what most travelers to the Caribbean area would experience.
Could I have booked a trendy resort spot in San Pedro on an island off the coast of Belize City, often called the Miami of Belize. Sure. I could have also booked an expensive more secluded island resort location on Ambergris Caye north of San Pedro. But when I travel, I often stay in places that put me more in the heart of the culture to experience the true sense of the country I am visiting. This was how I got to experience the country of Belize.
We rented an Airbnb from a local who also resided on the property. The host also became our own personal historian of the country throughout our stay and transport throughout the city and countryside near Belize City. Our accommodations were typical of a Belizean family; a small house nestled within a local housing community. The house was constructed of beautiful wood, inside and out which included various types such as mahogany, pine, grenadillo and zericotte. Mahogany was abundant in Belize until much of the area was mostly deforested through the extraction of the highly sought-after wood from the late 1700’s until the 1950’s. During that time, the economy of Belize was based on the extraction and exporting of mahogany. It is now a precious wood, especially in Belize as they try to preserve the tress remaining.
We were a stone’s throw away from the home of the mayor of Belize City. Every night we would see locals walking home from the public bus stop at the entrance of the housing plan, returning from work. It appeared most families had a pet with some roaming freely on the streets but always returning to their respective homes in the evening or barking at people passing by. We also lived without the commodities in the US, particularly central air condition. A lovely breeze did consistently waft through the house; however, the humidity was sticky upon your skin by 8am.
The people of Belize now depend on tourism to fuel their economy. Once the pandemic hit, they immediately shut their borders down. The cases have been extremely low. Our host told us 16 cases only. Although they reopened to tourist in November of 2020, I felt like one of the only Americans in Belize. On the morning ferry ride to Caye Caulker, we were the only tourists. Everyone else on the ferry was on their way to work, likely to San Pedro where all the resorts are.
We (my son and I) were the only people visiting the Altun Ha Mayan ruins as well. We tried to buy a trinket or souvenir from each vendor to provide some type of income for each woman that was selling her products that day. On the drive through the countryside to get to the Mayan ruins, we witnessed how the Belizeans in the rural areas lived. Everyone had their own large property with either a garden or plantation to provide all their food needs. Since they are self-sufficient and do not have access to internet usually, the shutdown did not affect them with some likely not even aware of it. They were already living without reliance on outside help. Many Americans could learn from them and because of the pandemic and the lack of inventory on certain items, many have considered the idea of creating self-sufficient gardens now.
Belize, as most know, was a British colony. Belize will celebrate 30 years of being independent of Great Britain. They still honor and respect the queen and had lowered all flags to half-mast to honor Prince Philip's death a few days before our arrival. I had not realized how “young” the country was as an independent. This is why in Belize everyone speaks English which makes travel to this country easier and more enjoyable. They do speak Creole which I tried to understand but to no avail. Belizeans also love American dollars since they get more Belize dollars with American money. Two Belize dollars to one American dollar. There are no money exchange places in Belize, but every merchant will except American cash.
Overall, the trip was lovely, and it was invigorating to simply be able to travel internationally after a year of lockdowns. We finished our stay at a quiet, family owned, secluded property with individual bungalows at the convergence of the Belize River and the Caribbean Sea. I highly recommend the place- Seaside Chateau Resort. Even though the snorkeling was amazing, out of all my international travels, this was not my favorite. However, the people were the best; so kind, generous, friendly, and I learned so much about Belize and the people.